Installation Tips ... 
Success with glass tile and stone tile involves practical as well as aesthetic matters. Whether your project is small or large, whether you design it or hire a professional, and whether you install it yourself or rely on a tile setter, you should be aware of certain facts before starting a project.

1) Making Selection  ....
Selecting the right glass mosaic tile or stone mosaic tile for your job requires asking yourself the following questions:

• Where and how do I plan to use the glass tiles?
• What is my budget?
• What is the architectural style of my house? 
• What is my personal taste?
• What are my living habits?

Once you have narrowed your choices, buy a few samples. When you are selecting tiles from a catalog (or a website) and cannot feel the texture or experience the color and quality of the glaze, ask for samples before committing yourself. Live with them for a few days. Look at them next to other surfaces and materials they will share the space with. Be sure to switch on the lights in the room the tile will inhabit because the tile color will look different in your home than it did under the showroom lights.

If you are working with an architect or interior designer, he or she will specify exactly which pieces are needed. For a complex job, the designer may even take elevation drawings to the tile retailer and have them reviewed by store personnel before the order is finalized.

If you are doing the installation yourself, bring exact measurements and a detailed drawing or a set of blueprints to the showroom, so that a salesperson can help you specify the order. If you are using a professional to install your design, let him or her handle the order to avoid any finger-pointing midjob should a shortage of glass tiles or missing trim pieces occur, resulting in a delay.

Most professionals advise that you buy 5-10% more tile than you actually need to cover breakage and cuts during installation, and to replace the occasional tile broken at a later date. If the design is complex, laid on the diagonal, or will involve an unusual amount of cutting, order even more.

If the mosaic tile is a common design, it is likely to be warehoused by us, and delivery should take approximately 7-15 days. Custom orders and imported tile may take up to 8-12 weeks or more, to arrive.

The field tile cost is the result of multiplying the cost per square foot by the number of square feet needed (including extra coverage). and by adding the cost of trim pieces. The cost of installation is additional. Get at least 3 estimates and be sure that prices are based on the same methods of installation and materials. Labor costs will vary depending upon the area in which you live, and the complexity of the project, which in turn affects the time required.

Typically, large flat area will cost less per square foot than smaller jobs that entail a lot of detail and trim work. The more cuts required to fit tile around corners and into odd-shaped places, the higher the labor costs. For instance, diagonal patterns need more cutting and costs more than a straight square. Furthermore, many installers charge more for handmade glass tile, as its irregularities make it more time consuming to lay.

4) Installation  ....
Professional Assistant
Before hiring an installer, check out a few of his or her completed projects as well as references. Ask former clients about the installer's timeliness, cleanliness, courtesy, and price. Be sure to visit not only recently completed jobs, but also jobs that have been in place for a couple of years, when problems are likely to have cropped up. The jobs should be similar in scope to yours and feature similar tiles. If you are using handmade glass mosaic tile, and all you see are factory tile jobs, the installer may not be comfortable with the challenges of handmade materials. When comparing bids, be aware that a low price may mean that the installer plans to take shortcuts such as filling a small space with grout instead of taking the time to cut tile. Ask your installer's advice and make your preferences clear, including how to treat grout. If you have any doubts about the tile itself, voice them now. A supplier will not entertain claims after installation.

Do-It-Yourself
Simple mosaic tile installations can often be handled by do-it-yourselfers, but others require the experience and skill of a professional.  After spending good money for a quality product, you may not want to take a risk by spoiling it with poor craftsmanship or an inadequate substrate.
 
1. Accessing the structure. The weight of tiled floors and walls is substantial. Ensure that the structure can support the weight of the tile and mortar, and that there are no structural problems behind the wall.
 
2. Surface Preparation. The surface must be clean, level, stable, and, if necessary, waterproofed. Remove loose substances or nail them down securely and patch as necessary. An improperly prepared substrate can lead to maintenance headaches, particularly in kitchens and baths where previous problems may have caused damage or lingering wetness behind the walls.
 
3. Mortars and adhesives. It is important that appropriate mortar or adhesive is chosen for your job. The factors include the method of installation, location, function, type of tile and budget. Generally there are 2 categories:

• Thin-set adhesives are designed to be strong in a relatively thin application. A thin-set installation costs less, can be completed more quickly, and cures faster than the thick-set method. It weights less than a third as much as thick-set installations. Thin-set has become the standard form; however, it cannot be used in every situation.
• Portland-cement mortar is generally used with thick-set installations because it is relatively inexpensive. A mixture of Portland cement and sand is usually used for floor; lime is added for walls. The thick-set method was standard until the 1950s when new products enable faster, less labor-intensive techniques. A thick-set installation is impervious to water and can compensate for irregular or unleveled surfaces. It allows an installer to create a gentle slope, facilitating proper drainage in a shower, or to correcting bad wall. Be aware that the height of the floor will be raised somewhere between 3/4 inch and 2 inches, in addition to the thickness of the tile.

4. Seal. Stone tile should be sealed to be water and stain resistant, a necessity in kitchens, baths, and other rooms where spills are likely. Generally, there are 2 categories of sealer -- penetrating (water based) and surface (solvent based). Some penetrating sealers do not change the color of the stone, others darken the stone slightly, and still others give the stone a distinct "wet look". Surface sealers, which are usually formulated from acrylic or urethane, impart a higher gloss, highlighting the natural character and color of the stone. In most cases, sealer is applied after the tile is laid but before it is grouted. Your retailer will recommend a specific sealer depending upon the following three factors: the porosity of the stone, where it is to be installed, and the look desired. Generally a water base product is for a bathroom or hallway, where moisture resistance is key; a solvent-based one is usually better where grease is the culprit. All sealers have to be reapplied as they wear down every few years. Penetrating types merely need a new coat, but surface sealers must be removed before reapplication. Check the manufacturer's recommendation and always test it before actually applying it to your actual floor or wall.
 
5. Grout. There is a wide range of options. The issues in deciding what grout to use are joint width, stain resistance, location, underlayment, and any special factors, such as dampness or freezing conditions. Consult your grout supplier for a recommendation. Make sure you test the grout with your tile before an actual installation. Some tiles can be stained by grout. Once the tile has set and any sealer has dried, Grout can be forced into the spaces between tiles with a rubber float or a squeegee, working one small area at a time. Excess grout must be carefully removed by wiping the float across at a 90 degree angle to the surface, and then by wiping the tiles clean. Floor should not be walked on for at least 1 day, and sometimes 3 or 4 days following installation. Use plywood board or kraft paper if it is absolutely necessary to cross the area.

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